Showing posts with label West Texas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label West Texas. Show all posts

Saturday, 14 May 2011

The Desert Minx Part 5 – Mooning for the mature lady

I would like to say that my back problem developed in a shoot out with Jekyll and Hyde, I mean Bonnie and Clyde, but as you know if you have devoted yourself to the last four chapters, I have been hinting at it. Some of you will remember the Top and Bottom Twang of 2005, followed by the Great Sneeze of 2008, well almost another three year gap and we come to the Slow Collapse of 2010.
There is a slight smart on getting up from anything, especially anything as low down as the ground, accompanied with a slight dragging of the right leg, sort of Quasi a la Modo, which then rights itself after 10 minutes' walk until mounting of stairs is required.

By the time we get to Canyonlands and, my pretend it doesn’t exist climb on the picnic bench seat, the following morning I am using the outside of the tent to pull myself to a standing position and it is taking me a good 5 minutes to do the very unpc “I’s a coming boss” walk to the toilet/shower block which is 50 yards away. Throw in the long round trip to the Arches and when we set off for Capitol Reef, well I am in something of a mess which I seek to control with drugs - 2 Tylenol every fffffthree hours and 2 ibuprofen. The journey to Capitol Reef is very, very long, but I distract myself with more colourful lunar landscapes and shades of Palo Duro Canyon and the Big Bend trip


Intermingled with someone trying to offend the dominant religious group






Not to mention the unexpurgated version of Little House on the Prairie








There was nothing for miles but dust and hills






And ghost trucks seemingly driving themselves









Then a brief change of formation












It was like God, if you believe he is the supreme creator of all, was having a real artistic dilemma or else dropped his Hobby Lobby art kit in the middle of a Wizard of Oz tornado



 
It was like we were seeing almost all of our trips in tableau form.


Chop


change




Chop




 

Approaching lunar base 8












And the road goes ever on…it is 4 pm and we have been driving since 8.30 am












Hurrah












And oh look different rock formations again…












In 7 and half hours we have been through about 3 towns and seen probably 50 cars at most …gained a casualty







and again in true West West Texas style the camp is full 

 Our only option is back country camping for which the parking is another 9 miles, walk at least half a mile with full kit, food and water, before setting up camp, so we are not visible from the road, presumably so as not to spoil the view for the lazy buggers munching on popcorn and slurping Gatorade to re-instate all the calories expended steering their V6 engines through the landscape.....and ”leave no trace aka bury your pooh!”. Can you tell I am in pain….

By the time I have managed to get down from our little explorer I find P has said ok and paid up the dosh for the privilege. To be fair we have always wanted to do this and found ourselves in a similar position at Pedernales Falls it just isn’t the right time….


Off we go, by now and on this erm….dirt track I have to prop myself on my hands to control being chucked about in the front seat, the pain has got excruciating and I can’t take any more pills until food. P is driving like a maniac otherwise we have the additional problem of setting up camp in the dark.


So here we are wearing brave smiles….note the right leg





I decide it is time to take myself off to die in some remote, hidden place like a cat



We find a site next to the river but only a quarter of a mile from the road…Rio and I are short and P can just stoop to reduce our visibility. We are at the mouth of a canyon surrounded by



We decide to cook in the car park and then walk back down



Ham and mushroom carbonara



And lots of wine….and drugs


Time for bed, I’ll just pop the ¼ mile to the bedroom, with bed…and emergency flask of tea






Riona’s ickle tent complete with additional rock…because the wind is up







God I am so brave, P is so happy. At this point if you are:

a) easily offended disposition

or

b) raised by Miss Prissy's school of decorum and etiquette




I suggest you scroll qucikly until you find the words "It is called Fruita"






 
Between that shot and this  (one of the most beautiful renditions I have heard and seen by the way)


I have

  • cried a lot,
  • needed a wee…
but it has got to the stage where I can’t get to my feet without assistance, the tent cannot take the amount of pressure needed double as a surgical hoist.  So without assistance I am stuck on all fours and I can’t wake and won't wake P as he has had to cope with me blubbering already and he will make us go home and I don't want to be the one to ruin the trip. So what to do...................................................

........And it is only halfway through my “manouevre” which involves balancing on one hand whilst executing a variation of the move that your mother used to have to do at the seaside when you were trying to put still sandy feet through your knicker leg and didn't want to be wriggling all the way home......that I realize I could literally come face to face with a bob cat or mountain lion ….I leave you to imagine my predicament suffice to say there were no animals carnivorous or otherwise needing counselling.


So in the morning light I plan my crawl back to the car which involves circumventing a damp patch.... better set off now….if we are to get back to the main campsite to see if there are any spaces in "civilisation". P won’t hear of me crawling and so we start the raising of the Titanic which is a two stage maneouvre…stage one is hoisting me halfway to my feet in a front Heimlich thingy, 2 minutes to get rid of the first lightning strike pain and prepare myself for stage 2 which is to get my feet flat and check I can stand on at least the left one. This is 2008 without the ambulance men or oxygen. I leave them to break camp while I limp back.





It is called Fruita (note the population), where families set up orchards to grow all kinds of fruit trees, then the community dwindled and was handed over to the National Park . You too can pick the fruit and the first apple is free. The beauty of it is that the wildlife have caught on and even though the tradition is not to give them fruit, it is the one place it has been accepted that it is difficult to separate man and beast so you get this….











This is Riona by the way not me…




Did I tell you I have only ever seen Bambi upto but not including the scene where Texas Pete steps in ???




The homestead is still there and they sell fresh fruit pies too. A recent apple chudders grave







Rio, the original bag lady, used to pick up everything as a kid and deposit it in the bag and clearly has not got out of the habit






When aged 2 the washed creamy woodlouse that fell out on the ironing board from her dungaree pocket was bad enough but this ...a baby version of what clearly had eaten most of the surrounding human population






even by her standards







And so to supper and preparations for bed.  It has got to the stage now where it is difficult to walk without pain. I decide to set off for the toilet block 30 yards away.  I can't open the door properly and so a kind lady helps. Inside I try to change and wash. I need the loo but feel woozy and the toilet cubicle gets smaller and then there is a big crash. I lay there and then a bunny in the headlights P pops his head cautiously around the door, to see mine sticking out the bottom of the cubicle. Last time that happend was aged 5 when my friend Ann Watson and I got trapped in Gillshill school toilets (outside) at playtime and the whistle blew and everyone else marched in and we thought we would starve to death and so I had to wriggle out underneath to get help.  

Poor P the risk of being caught in the ladies with a erm "lady" with foundation wear not properly secured...Having got me to my feet he runs for the hills (well re-inforcements Riona) to come and assist which fortunately due to my fierce independence means making sure I don't pass out again whilst brushing my teeth and re-washing my hands and face after their contact with the toilet floor...eeeewwww. P is recalled to half carry me back to the tent and pills.

What will tomorrow bring?

Sunday, 8 November 2009

Camping Texas Style

Seasoned travellers like what we are...8 hours drive to the Guadeloupe National Park, West Texas to camp, and still not out of the state. We decided to get some audio books since there is only so much time you can listen to music, and almost no time length to fix on KLOVE Kay and her traffic news; so John Le Carre Absolute Friends and for some bizarre reason P's choice...Richard III.

Setting off on a Thursday at 12 and 4 hours of John le Carre's second main character pronouncing "Teddy you asshole" in an East German accent, later we stop for coffee here (you need to zoom in to see the importance of this)



Fuelled up we then hit donkey country...not the one wearing a straw hat and carrying casks of Amontillado over the mountains..the nodding kind and not just the odd one but thousands of the things in a great expanse of nuthin...nope sorry....absolutely nuthin

You could die out there and your bones crumble to blow about with the tumbleweed before anyone would find you and given the lack of any habitation they would probably eat you anyway..

Do you remember P's Myrtle Beach myth that got dashed (May 2009, Honey Honey) Well all the way there he kept announcing in a gravelly Mexican accent..

We're going West of the Pecos my friend
, Then mashing the grub from his neat tequila in between his teet....

No I fib, license poetically.

Pecos.....




So we had had Pecos, we had had donkeys in absolutely nuthin.....then we had absolutely nuthin....not even the odd car for 2 hours.




Oh I lie again..a deer caught in the glare of the headlights in a lunar landscape.

Men landing on the moon poppycock they were "west of the Pecos my friend".

It is that nuthin the legal speed limit is 80 for 150 miles.

8.45 pm, it's dark, remember not a soul for two hours.

We arrive.....a campsite with 3 toilets, 2 sinks and an outdoor pump and sink to wash dishes. The nearest petrol station is another 40 miles away and the nearest hotel 50 miles away.

And it's full!

Including an American woman in the toilet block whose father came from .......Hull!

We sleep in the car and the old skiiing hip (See 28/01/09 Wydaho) comes back to haunt me along with P muttering in disbelief and wondering which piece of God forsaken, cotton picking wood work his fellow campers crept out of about every 10 minute.

Daybreak from the car:



Breakfast out of the boot followed by a washing session at the pump



And before our main quest of the trip, which I am conviced is going to leave me even more kna...d we go in search of a vacated site. Hurrah! And an awesome aspect to it is as well.





And now for the heighest peak in Texas, 8,000 feet ..imaginatively named Guadeloupe Peak and not one of those in the above photos. Already being 5,000 feet above sea level, 3,000 feet over 4.5 miles on the outward trip seems not a bad climb, except that the first 2 miles contain most of the ascent:





The odd lightning strike



Precarious boulders



The first of many false summits



The scary bridge we crossed



3.5 hours later the summit.. fresh as a daisy



And absolutely nuthin



Except the wind, P and El Capitan.



Sandwich box empty..but ample water and emergency Cadbury fruit and nut and Maltesers at the ready we start the descent. We set off at a fair lick, me in front (for a change). But at the rickety bridge I get this sense of needing to look back only to see P holding the right hand side of his face and head in his handsbecause of the most crushing pain, whire as a sheet....We are in the middle of nowhere still 3 miles up and right next to the steepest drop with P going slightly dizzy...how can this be he's the one playing over 30's and 40's football every week. It is at this point he muses:

Do you think we've hit our limit?


We sit for 15 minutes and fortunately I have brought pills...(for my hips hey ho). I make him walk in front now..gradually the pain subsides and we still have no idea what it was.

3 hours later we are almost at the bottom when we meet Parkie who is just going up the mountain to help anyone getting lost after dark. I am thinking about how fit he must be to do this about twice a week..so is P who has now almost fully recovered.

We ask what is in the Delaware Mountains to go to see.

Urgh, nuthin. It's private.


A private mountain range wow...


Yup you can't go in. The guy who owns Amazon owns it, he's building a space launch pad.


Isn't competition good...Richard Branson is apparently building one just over the border in New Mexico. I can see the bogoff wars already.

Anyway he can't hang around, got stragglers to check on. P and I emerge through the gate at the bottom 7.5 hours after we set off and P makes me raise my arms in a victory salute.

Luxury cooking with my two stoves... and then it is dark



I need to sleep, drat will have to forego the ranger talk on creepy crawlies.

We settle down, P re-visiting the joys of a mummy sleeping bag.

At this point being Mountain time we realise that we are an hour behind the time on P's watch..we have gone to bed at 7.30!

Day 2 and sunrise from a tent



On Rangers recommendation we are off to Mcittrick Canyon, a gentle walk within our limitation..no hills. The only place in the park with running fresh water



Walking into the cantyon was like being in a western with proper high sides and Injuns watching from the ridge.

People come to get the Texan equivalent of leaf peeping and the colours were beautiful but I limited my shots because with no electricity on site and no means of re-charging the battery I didn't really manage to do it justice

Like the Delaware Mountains the canyon was bought by a private citizen, Pratt who was the founding surveying engineer of Exxon oil and actually spotted it on one of his surveying flights. He had a lodge built in 1930 halfway along. It is perfectly preserved. Unlike the DM's he then gifted it over to the nation and the National Park.





This "grotte" was our ultimate destination in the canyon.



There was also a hunting lodge at the end but it's only resident now was this:



A pumpkin spider.

So that was the morning and another 7 miles under out belt...impressed huh? My hips weren't.

For the afternoon entertainment..Carlsbad Caverns just over the border in New Mexico.

Home to the largest underground cavern outside of Borneo and some really cool formations:



The lion's tale...











Least said



And the other reason for coming. Can you see the snaking line of black dots? Bats...Mexican Fruit bats ....30,000 of them. You sit in an amphitheatre at the opening to the cavern from which they emerge at sunset. You can't actually take pictures there because any electric equipment upsets their sonar and there is a terrible muddle.:



This being Texas though there is always a bigger better something somewhere...the bat colony in Austin which lives under a bridge...2 million.

Then it is a drive home accompanied by the sunset:




Sunrise on our last day.






West Texas is the prettiest part of Texas by far and has an eery quality. having got to Guadelopue National Park we have decided in the spring to attempt Big Bend National Park which is 3 hours south of "Pecos my friend", on the Mexican as opposed to the New Mexico border.


Ah well time to go 8 hours journey ahead....and

Teddy you ass hole!


Next stop November - Miami and Key West to celebrate Riona's 21s. Then by crikey it's Christmas.

x